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There is no such thing as a "breed" of rat. Rats are rats are rats. There are different varieties, which means the colors and markings as well as coat, ear, and body type. It doesn't break down any further than “rat”. Each rat can have individual personalities regardless of the variety.

Rats are very social and require companions of their own species for their happiness and wellbeing. Being kept alone can be harmful to a rat, as they can experience grief much like humans, as well as develop health issues like depression, anxiety and illnesses. Human companionship is not the same as same-species companionship. Imagine that your only friend in the entire world spoke an entirely different language than you. Even if you spend all of your time with them, it would still be a pretty lonely life, wouldn’t it?

Even if you have rats at home, rats need same age company when they're young. They'll be more active than a more mature rat, and having a friend of the same age gives them somewhere to put that excess energy. Three same-sex rats is the lucky number (less dominance spats, etc). This goes for both males and females.

Per my policy, I only adopt out rats in pairs or more. When deciding how many rats to adopt, it's important to recognize their social nature and prioritize their well-being. Rats are highly social animals and require the company of their own kind to engage in natural behaviors like grooming and playing, which are crucial for their mental and emotional health.

For new rat owners, it's recommended to start with two rats, but having a small group of 3 to 4 can provide even better social interaction and support for each other. Having more than two rats can also offer resilience in case one passes away unexpectedly, ensuring the remaining rats still have companionship.

Ultimately, the number of rats you adopt should depends on your ability to care for them properly and commit time to meeting their social and environmental needs. As you become more experienced in rat care, you can consider adopting more if you have the resources and space to accommodate them responsibly.

While there are distinct differences between the behaviors and physical traits of does and bucks, each rat possesses its own unique personality, temperament, and idiosyncrasies. However, there are some general characteristics to consider:

Males: Typically larger and heavier than females. Display more obvious physical features, such as large testicles. More likely to enjoy cuddling and physical affection.

Females: Generally smaller and lighter than males. Retain a playful and lively demeanor well into middle age. Can be just as affectionate and cuddly as males, especially if handled well.

Other behavioral and physical traits, such as scent marking, are more individualized and not strictly tied to gender. While male rats may have a slightly stronger scent, both sexes engage in scent marking, which involves rubbing scent glands along surfaces and dribbling urine. The frequency of scent marking is not significantly more common in either sex.

Avoid cages advertised for "rats and mice," as they are typically too small for rats. Wooden cages and those lacking proper ventilation, such as plastic enclosures or glass tanks, are also unsuitable.

Since rats spend a significant portion of their time, up to 22-23 hours a day, within their cage, it's important for it to be spacious, engaging, and sufficiently large to support their active lives. They will utilize the height of a cage if provided, as they love to climb. We always recommend “Critter Nation” cages if budget isn’t an issue.

If you already have a cage, we recommend utilizing a rat cage calculator. This tool will help in assessing how many rats can be comfortably accommodated in a given cage. Pay attention to cage bar spacing. Bars spaced between 0.4-0.6 inches apart are suitable for most rats, while anything 1 inch or wider is likely to not contain your rats.

There are many commercially available substrates for rats. Safe bedding include Aspen, CornCob, CareFresh, or other paper-based pet bedding. Most pet bedding options will neutralize the ammonia in rat urine, keeping your cage smelling fresh longer! You can also use shredded newspaper, shredded white paper, or bits of fleece or other cloth that can be washed and reused, though these choices do not neutralize the rat urine smell and your cage will need to be cleaned a few times a week if not every day.

We use Kiln-Dried Pine for bedding for our rats. Non-Kiln Dried Pine and Cedar wood chips, or scented bedding should NOT be used in cages for rats. Pine and Cedar contain phenols, which can irritate the sensitive respiratory system of a rat, and may cause respiratory infections. MBLU says "if you can't hold it to your nose and breath it for 5 minutes, don't expect your rats to live in it".

Providing your rat with a varied diet is crucial for meeting their nutritional needs and promoting enrichment. Similar to hamsters and gerbils, a significant portion of a rat's diet should consist of a well-balanced, uniform, fortified pellet or rodent block free from artificial flavors, colors, and preservatives. These pellets serve as the foundation of the diet, ensuring that your rat receives essential nutrients and calories. We use Mazuri Rat and Mouse food and Kalmbach Rat food interchangeably.

Using a uniform pellet or block helps prevent selective eating of high-fat and high-calorie items, which rats may naturally prefer. By controlling caloric intake and encouraging stimulating activities, you can support your rat's overall health and well-being, as they are prone to obesity, which can lead to various negative secondary effects.

Treats like cereals, fruits and veggies are encouraged, but only in small amounts.

Pet stores typically charge for rats that will be fed to reptiles. As such, they are not bred for health/temperament/type. I have put more than 10 years into working with my rats. Keeping track of lineages, cleaning, filling food and water...it's more time consuming than you can imagine. I also put a lot of money into my rats. Medicine, cages, enrichment, and their tailored diets are not cheap.

Even with prices higher than a pet store, I still don't turn a profit on my rats. I do this as a passion project, not a business, but the adoption fees help me keep things running as well as insuring that ALOE Rats aren't on the menu for reptiles or going to irresponsible breeders just looking to get babies quick. If you feel the adoption fees are too steep, you may not be ready to adopt rats and provide them with the care they deserve. Yes, rats are small pets, but they are not cheap pets by any means when properly cared for.

We label our rats in 3 different categories, Common, Uncommon, and Rare. That is directly related to the genetics that makes up each rat, and the rarity of those genetics in our Rattery. This has nothing to do with their personalities, so one rat won’t make a better pet than another just because it’s priced higher. It just means our Uncommon and Rare tend to be a harder to produce variety of rats (recessive genetics), or more sought after than Common rats, so they tend to find homes the quickest.